NOVA series 120V Power testing with a multimeter for when a machine "will not turn on"

NOVA series 120V Power testing with a multimeter for when a machine "will not turn on"

By performing these test, you acknowledge the risk and have the understanding of the risk in working with electrical power. 120V can be harmful. By proceeding, you are accepting the risk.

This article covers How to Trace 120V power in your Nova machine to determine what is not powering on to get to the root cause

Articles to use as reference and understand:



Devices to become familiar with:

1. Main Power Switch
2. Laser Power Switch
3. Estop button
4. Power Cable and Socket
5. Main Contactor
6. Power Terminal blocks with Red Jumpers
7. Wire Labeling Scheme (L for Line, N for Neutral, # for which position it is in on the schematics)


Sections of the machine:

1. The 24V power supply is fed by 120v through the MAIN power switch and feeds the controller\screen\lights\sensors etc.
2. The 36V power supply is fed by 120v through the MAIN power switch and feeds the x,y and Z axis. So if you have controller power, but none of your drives work, that is a good place to look.
3. The Chiller and Laser Power Supply (LPSU) are fed by the main contactor. The main contactor activates when the Laser Switch is turned on. The Laser switch is fed 120v by the MAIN power switch. The main contactor can be manually activated by pressing the contactor "in" and looking for the chiller and LPSU to power up. The 120v at the top of the main contactor is fed from the Main Breaker and is always hot if the main breaker is on and the machine is connected to 120v wall outlet.
4. Estop will kill power to the machine except if the Main Contactor is manually actuated like what is mentioned above


Things to look for at a quick glance to know if power is passing in the machine:

1. Green LED on the 24V and 36V power supply near the terminals on each power supply means the power supply has 120v and is operating properly
2. When you turn the LASER power switch on (MAIN on as well) and you hear the "clunk" of the main contactor pulling in
3. With the MAIN power switch on, your machine lights up, screen is on and Ruida controller is on. LED 14 on Ruida is flashing, LED 15 solid
4. Green LEDS on the motor drivers to indicate that they have 36v and are powered on. If the RED led is flashing on the driver, then the driver is faulted and needs a power cycle
5. Chiller comes or or doesn't when the main contactor is pulled in. On means that the 120v is present at the chiller. Off could mean the connection at the contactor is loose, connection at the chiller is loose, or the chiller switch is off.
6. Screen on LPSU is on (not applicable on Nova24) that means power is present at the LPSU.

As you test things, remember which side of the wire or device that the power should be on. Like if you remove a  wire from a device, should the wire have 120v because it was feeding the device, of will the device have 120v on it because it was feeding the wire. Be mindful of your leads, their placement and what readings you get.
When removing a wire off a terminal or reinstalling a wire to a terminal, power off the machine and disconnect from the wall plug. Remove the wire or terminal and arrange it so that it is safe to power the machine back up

Tips:

1. Measure for 120V nominal, may be lower due to the provide power
2. If you cannot get 120V by measuring between the Blue and Brown wire at a device, measure between the Brown wire and a PE point
3. Print out the schematics and stat at the incoming power. Trace to the point where 120V does not appear where it should


Pictures Devices of Concern:

(Note that your wiring may vary slightly from what is shown below, follow the schematic and wire colors\numbers)

A Solid PE point to out your Black meter lead on when measuring 120V when a neutral wire is not nearby or is not reading:

This point is located at the bottom of the main control cabinet. Terminations like these exist through out the machine.



Power Sockets External (Main, Exhaust and Air Pump)



Power Socket Internal:




Power Switches External:



Power Switches Internal:



Main Breaker:



Main Contactor:

A1 and A2 are the coil wire points for the contactor to pull in. They are towards the back and have L2 and N2 on them.


Main Contactor :

Manually pressed in for manual powering of the Chiller and LPSU



Estop :

(located behind the upper door on the right side that is bolted shut from the factory, unbolt from the inside)
Test Blue to Brown on the right side and on the Left Side. Can also measure Brown to a panel PE point.



Laser Power Supply Location (Except on Nova 24, it is on the left side of the machine)




Laser Power Supply (myjg type, HYT will also have a 3 pin):

Measure 120v between the Brown and Blue wires on the 3 pin connector



Terminal Blocks:

Grey and Blue Terminals to the right are the feeders for the 120v through the machine. The red bars are jumpers, so if a terminal is connected to another with a red bar they should be at the same Voltage Potential.


Relays:

Power for the air assist, fans, rotary and doors. Only the air assist and exhaust fan (relays 1 to 3 from the left) should have 120v on the top connection points.



24v Power Supply:



36V Power Supply:



Noise filters NF1 and NF2:




Recommended order to check:

1. At power socket internally
2. At Main Breaker Top and Bottom
3. At Main Estop
4. At Main Contactor front contacts for Chiller\LPSU power (not A1 and A3)
5. At Main Switch
6. At Laser Switch
7. At Grey Terminal Blocks
8. At 36V Power Supply
9. At 24V Power Supply
10. At LPSU (If main contactor pulls in)
11. At chiller socket (If main contactor pulls in)
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