Thunder Laser Nova Series Chiller will not power on - Troubleshooting Guide
Preface: This article covers some of the reasons and checks for when your CW5000 or CW5200 chiller will not power on for your Thunder Laser Nova Series machines.
When working on the machine, the power should be removed by unplugging the machine from the wall and tripping the internal breaker. If the steps call for measuring voltage, the measurement must be done by a qualified person with the proper personal protective equipment.
Tool You May Need:
In order to complete the tasks in this article you will need the following tools.
Tool Description | Reference Image |
Small Flat Head Screw Driver - Can be used to access the fuse and for releasing wires on terminals | |
Phillips Head Screw Driver - For removing the chiller cover, tightening terminals on the main contactor | |
Multi-Meter - for measuring AC/DC voltages as well as continuity. Be sure to read and understand how to operate your meter. Here is some generic information: How To Use A Multimeter |
Troubleshooting Steps
These steps are geared towards troubleshooting a 120V power issue for the chiller. For a lot of the testing you will want the chiller in an area that you can reach all 4 sides easily. The work can be done through the filter covers but the space is tight so you may opt to remove the entire cover.
Check 1: Check the Power Switch on the Chiller
The power switch for the chiller should be in the ON position as shown belon.
Off Position | On Position |
Check 2: Power switches on the Laser Machine
The Main and Laser power switches on the machine should be in the ON positions as shown below. The machine should be on and operable. If not, then that is a different trouble shooting guide about power to the machine. (Note that this is for machines that power the chiller)
Check 3: Test the chiller with External Power
The chiller power socket is a standard socket that will fit a common cable that you may already have as it is used to power many devices that you may already own. You can borrow the cable from one of your other devices and use it to plug your chiller directly into a wall outlet.
This is a good step to perform as it can rule out if it is a chiller internal issue or a machine power feeding issue. If the chiller powers up, then you can skip Checks 4-6.
Check 4: Chiller Power Switch, Socket and Harness continuity (Need Multimeter)
Unplug the chiller from any power source and confirm the chiller is unpowered. There is a capacitor inside the chiller that may contain a charge. Wear your proper PPE and use proper insulated tools when working around the capacitor.
Open the dust filter cover on the right side of the chiller to access the connections on the back of the Chiller Power Switch
Right Side of Chiller | Filter Cover Opened Up |
For the wires, you will need to work the insulation back off the terminal to access the release tab. A small flathead does a good job here.
Insulation Caps | Removal Tab |
A view of the wire labeling for reference | To remove the terminal from the switch, you will need to depress this tab and pull back |
Remove the 4 wires from the power switch and measure continuity between the sets upper and lower terminals
All Four Wires Removed | Measure Continuity Across Terminal sets |
Power switch should be in the UP position. Look for a low Ohm reading between terminals in Set 1 (Upper to lower) and then in terminals in Set 2 (Upper to Lower) |
Measure Power Switch Harness Wire continuity to the Power Socket posts. Use the meter and measure from the L and N wires to their respective terminals.
| Chiller Power Switch Harness Wires | Chiller Socket for Power Input on Back of Chiller |
Measure continuity between the L and N wires to their respective locations on the chiller power input socket as shown to the right. Do not measure to the K4 and K2 wires. K1 and K3 Wires should be attached to the socket. |
If there is not continuity to the power socket, then there could be a wire break at the socket. You may need to remove the chiller and take pictures of the socket and email [email protected] for further guidance.
Check 5: Chiller AC/DC Power Supply for 24VDC with Water Pump Unplugged (Need Multimeter)
Test the chiller power supply with the chiller water pump unplugged. You can access the water chiller pump plug from the cover on the right side. Unplug the pump prior to powering up the chiller, otherwise water will shoot out the outlet of the chiller.
Right Side of Chiller | Chiller Pump Connector |
Unplug this connector. Note that when you turn the chiller on, it will beep for no flow. |
Measure 24V at the Chiller Water Pump Connector. The chiller will need to be plugged in and powered up. Your meter should be set to DC Voltage with a range adequate to ed 24VDC. If 24VDC is present here then the Chiller DC power supply is ok when the pump is unplugged. The screen should be on and beeping an E6 alarm for no flow.
Voltage Measurement | Chiller Screen |
Check 6: Fuse in the Chiller Power Socket
The chiller has an internal fuse on the power socket on the back of the chiller.
If the fuse is blown, it likely blew for a reason (compressor locking up etc) so even if you replace it, it will likely fail again. But, replacing it is a good troubleshooting step to see if the fuse burns up immediately or after a sustained run. Upon successive failures, it would be likely that the chiller needs replacement.
How to remove:
Use a small flathead and your thumb, insert the flat head under the tab on the power socket and pull out.
Inspect the fuse:
You can measure continuity across the fuse ends as well as visually checking.
Good Fuse | Blown Fuse Example |
The fuse that is exposed is the one that is being used, the other is a spare. |
Check 7: Chiller Power Cable Installation
Check that the Machine side of the Chiller Power cable is installed and twisted to the lock position
Properly Installed | Inserted but not Rotated to Lock |
Needs to be rotated about 30 degrees clockwise to lock the silver tab in place. |
Check that the Chiller side of the Chiller Power cable is installed fully as shown
| Fully Inserted | Not Fully Inserted |
Check 8: Chiller Socket Loose
There was a period of time where the socket was loose and would cause intermittent connection. Also the weight of the cable and possibility of moving the equipment around could cause the plug to come loose.
For more on that, see this article: Chiller Power Cord Intermittent Connection
Check 9: Chiller Power Cable Continuity (Need Multimeter)
For the chiller power cable, you will need to set your meter up for Continuity and test the 3 pins. See the images below for the pin numbering and locations. (Also visually check for thermal insult). Each end has pins that wire to the other, with the meter set to test continuity, check -L-L, N-N and Gnd-GND.
Cable - Machine Connector Pins | Cable - Chiller Connector Pins |
Take note of the arrow pointing to the Silver locking tab so that you orient the connector correctly |
Check 10: Main Contactor
The main contactor powers the Chiller and LPSU when the laser switch is powered up. If the main contactor is not pulling in, then the chiller and LPSU will not power up. There are a few things to check on the contactor. Please use the list below to check each one.
A. Is your LPSU powered up? Verify with screen, lights or fan being on. This will indicate if the main contactor is pulled in.
B. Thermal insult - Look for melting near the terminals for the L7,L8 and N7 wires
C. Loose wires - With the power unplugged from the machine, use the Phillips head screwdriver to tighten the screws for the L7, L8 and N7 wires on top and bottom of the contactor
D. Pulled in - Does the main contactor look like it is pulled in?
Disengaged (Out) Engaged (IN)
Check 11: Chiller Power Socket
With the machine powered on, check the power at the Machine's Chiller socket. Need to measure Line to Ground and Line to Neutral, both should measure near 120VAC.
Mitigations:
If the issue is the power coming from the Laser Machine, then you have two options to attempt to mitigate the issue while you wait on the proper parts to arrive.
Power Externally
Bypass Main Contactor
Power Externally
Using a standard power cable, attempt to power the chiller externally temporarily until a proper fix can occur.
Link to buy: C13 Plug to NEMA 5-15p
Bypass Main Contactor
If the contactor is the issue, it can be bypassed so that the chiller is powered up if the machine is plugged into the wall and you do not have the cable above.
There are 3 important wire pairs on the main contactor, N7, L7 and L8, the wires on the coil terminals for A1/A2 which are L2 and N2 are not important for the bypass.
You must remove power from the machine for this bypass work. The terminals remain energized when the machine is plugged into power but does not have to be turned on with the Main Power Switch.
To Bypass, you will need to remove the gray wire covers on the upper and lower positions, fish the lower wires back out of the wire duct to expose enough wire length. Then re-terminate the wires back on top of the main contactor.
Top of Main Contactor
Un-Bypassed Before | After Bypass |
Bottom of Main Contactor
Un-Bypassed Before | After Bypass |
Verify that you have the matching wires landed on the same terminals and did not cross a brown and a blue wire.
Restore power and power up the machine. Your chiller and LPSU should now both be powered independent of the Laser switch. This bypass should be temporary as you should replace the contactor to restore the machine back to it's normal operation.
Replacement Parts:
Here is a table of parts* you may need to return you system back to service.
Part Image | Link to Buy |
Chiller Power Socket (No Fuse installed) | |
*Confirm your parts before ordering